So the much anticipated, 2 week journey is about to begin. We are t-minus 48 hours. I will leave sooner, as I have to get to JFK to fly out to destination #1- Lisbon, Portugal. As hurricane Irma threatens Florida, i know it won’t impede my departure, but I hope all my friends and family stay safe.
Much planning on the part of my brother has gone into this trip, and I can’t wait for all the memories and experiences. Thank you for this opportunity- it is amazing and also pushing me out of my comfort zone. That being said…. Begin the countdown!
After some much needed rest, we grabbed sandwiches and prepared to see lots of tulips. We headed to Kukenhof Gardens. We took the scenic route and saw beautiful fields of brightly colored tulips. They only bloom from about mid March through mid May. They are quite a sight!
The weather cleared and we actually got some sun. The gardens are beautiful and filled with every color and type of tulip imaginable and then some. We had tickets to go through the fields by boat. The sun had gone and the wind got stronger. I would not recommend the boat ride. You are below eye level with the fields so you can’t see the wide swaths of color and half had been harvested leaving just grass. The gardens themselves are a must see during this season.
For dinner, we stopped into Ron Gastrobar. To start, we got a baguette with butter and bacon and a crispy onion with aioli. For dinner, I had smoked salmon. We also shared fries and salad for the table. At the end of dinner, they brought us complimentary mini ice creams in waffle cones. It was all really good. Tomorrow we go into Amsterdam.
Our flight was due to leave at 8:30, so we hopped in an Uber and headed to Newark. On this leg I’m flying budget business class. We board easily and settle in. We get a meal with our seats and I must say, Icelandair gets points for presentation and taste. At first, we got a glass of wine and some snacks that reminded me of cheese straws. The dinner was a beet salad, bread, braised lamb shank(bone removed for ease of eating) and a brownie with caramel mouse. It was all quite good.
The flight got into Iceland about 1:30am our time, 5:30 theirs. On the way in, we got to see a beautiful sunrise as we approached Iceland.
We had an hour and a half connection. A wheelchair transport had been arranged for my dad and they got him and took a different route than we were supposed to go. We went through passport control expecting to meet up once we were through. We got through,but no Bob. Our gate hadn’t been announced so we couldn’t look there for him. We ran into a helpful airport staff member and told her our situation. “You lost your father?” she asked in her Icelandic accent. She joined in the hunt. We eventually located him and shortly after, boarded the next plane following a bus ride to the plane’s entry. I opted out of breakfast as I was still full and wanted to attempt sleep. I managed a whole 45 minutes. Amsterdam was stormy, and I’m pretty sure lightning hit the plane on our descent. There was a huge flash of light that was very unsettling, but we landed safely.
We journeyed on through baggage claim and on to the car rental. Thankfully, we all fit and so did our luggage. 30 minutes later we were at our rental. I was fading fast, as our travel day was nearing around 15 hours. A quick 3 hour nap did wonders.
The place we are staying is about 30 minutes south of the airport on the beach. It is right across from a national park with large grass covered dunes. We are on the top floor and large glass windows looking out at the North Sea are plentiful. There is a restaurant right in front of our place and on the beach so we opted to have dinner there. Republiek is a beautiful space. With some help from google translate, we looked over the menu. The majority of us opted for the monkfish in a buerre blanc. I also got the potato side which looked like a cinnamon bun made of thin potatoes. Both were very good. I got a nice Rioja by the glass to go with. After dinner, it was back to the apartment to catch up on some sleep.
My dad turned 70 this past October, and as a gift, we planned a trip to see the tulips when they were blooming with a visit to Iceland as well. He has always wanted to see the tulips blooming, so we are checking that one off the list for him.
I began this journey, as I have many, at Vino Volo for a glass of wine. I headed up to New Jersey a day before we flew out to Amsterdam and am glad I did. Due to a flight corridor being closed due to weather, we circled Raleigh for a while before stopping in Charlotte to refuel. A two hour flight turned into a six hour flight, but what can you do. I did get to see a beautiful sunset, so I’ll take that positive. Finally I made it. On to travel day two tomorrow….
Half of our crew left this morning. Two to head back to New York and two onto Lisbon. It’s noticeably quieter in the house. Four people that were in a huge house do leave quite a void. But somehow, after enjoying the sun by the pool, we managed to go on. Travis and Megan and my brother and I decided to walk into town to find lunch and make a dinner reservation(clearly food is important).
Going down was steep, but doable, especially in daylight hours. We stopped in a little tapas shop for a sandwich and a meat and cheese plate. After that we thought maybe a tasting would be fun, so we tried Bonfim, which is home to a lot of area wines and ports. The woman said it was impossible…until 45 minutes later. We decided impossible must have a different translation here and decided to come back after 5. Meanwhile, we crossed the bridge to go to Carvalhos. So this was the place six years ago that I almost passed out during a vineyard tour. Not my finest moment, but I really did want to try the wines. This time, it was a success. And they have a wide variety of wines, being the biggest producer in the area. I really enjoyed a lot of what I tried as well.
The original plan was to walk back up, get ready for dinner, walk back down, eat and catch a cab. It didn’t take much convincing for everyone to go grab a glass at Bonfim, head to dinner and then grab a cab back up. Bonfim has a beautiful patio area, and we got there close to sunset, so a lovely spot for a glass of wine.
From there, we walked up to a restaurant slightly off the beaten path. It had just opened, so was of course, empty. We were seated and chose our last meals in Pinhao. I got the octopus, which had a nice char and was tender. Cory got the same with a salad. Be aware if you go to Portugal, a salad is not what we might assume a salad is. This one had head-on shrimp and clams in it. Unexpected. We shared a red we had tried earlier at Carvalhos.
After dinner, we wandered down to catch a cab. Turns out, the cabs just sleep at the train station. There are no drivers. So up the mountain we went. It is beautiful at night. And a very steep walk. We made it, and after that walk combined with a previous late night, we retired early. Tomorrow we say goodbye to Pinhao.
Today began a bit drizzly and overcast. Still beautiful out by the pool even on a grey day. Blake and Travis made the trek down the hill to find a dinner spot for after our boat ride. They said the walk back up was definitely steep!
Our taxi driver arrived and took us down to the waterfront where we would board the boat. We stopped in Quinta do Noval for a quick glass of wine. It’s a newer addition to the area, and is a beautiful space. Wine bottles in tow, we headed to the boat. It really is a beautiful ride up and down the river. We enjoyed our various wines, and when we pulled out the Guru, one of the guides was like, that’s a great wine! We have good taste. It was quite windy on the way back, but still a great view.
It was a two hour ride, so we were done at 6. Our dinner reservation was at 7. We decided to walk to it anyway and see what would happen. They were so kind and let us in early to drink our own wine before they opened. They set up our table and gave us glassware. Above and beyond what would happen here usually. The setting was spectacular. When they actually opened, an older woman took our order and calmed us down on the ordering because we were ordering too much. She also recommended wine. Dinner was fantastic. There was steak, octopus, fish, sausage… a veritable smorgasbord. Towards the end, it began to rain. They ushered us outdoor diners inside with the indoor diners. Everyone was so kind and accommodating. It’s the kind of unintentional comraderie that I love. An unexpected moment of sorts. Our driver came and we headed back up the mountain for more fun, sad that four of us would be leaving the next day.
Today we started out slow, enjoying the beautiful pool area and the sun. Cory had arranged for a driver to take us around noon to two wineries for tastings. The ride was even more precarious than the previous day as we were headed higher up the mountains.
First stop was Quinta do Jalloto. Wow. The scenic views from their property were amazing! We tasted two whites, a rose, and a red as well as ate some delicious meat, cheese and fried croqueta-esque items. We enjoyed the second white and shared a bottle of it while enjoying the picturesque setting.
The next stop was Wine and Soul. There labels are under other names, but it’s run by a husband and wife team. We got a tour which included being able to touch(or stick your arm in, in some cases) the grapes already in the vats awaiting more press. They do foot stomp some of their wines here. Our guide said it was very hard work that was done for three hours at a time. I think they could capitalize on tourist labor to help out! We then went on to the tasting. All the wines were fantastic, but the Guru white was a crowd favorite. They told me who distributes it in the US, so I’m excited about being able to order it. Their ports are also intentionally a less sweet style and everyone liked those too. We bought wine from both spots for dinner and our BYOB boat ride the next afternoon.
We enjoyed some more time by the pool, and Simon the cat stopped by to try and share our snack platter. He succeeded, and was definitely starting to feel at home. The dinner the night before was so plentiful, and the walk down and back up to go to a restaurant more than a little iffy after wine tasting, that we decided to have a repeat. After dinner, we hung out for a bit before retiring to our various quarters in this palatial space.
We grabbed a quick breakfast before heading to Sao Bento to meet up with Travis and Megan and Abby and Blake to catch the train. It’s about a two and a half hour ride along the Douro River. It really is a beautiful, scenic ride. You just need the right side of the train on the way there and the left on the way back. After arriving, we had some issues getting a cab. One even refused to go up the mountain to our house. The woman renting us the house finally arranged for someone to come. It at least gave us some time for some of the group to grab wine and snacks.
Once we finally arrived, the house was amazing! Everyone got their own room and bathroom, and the outdoor space was gorgeous. Getting up there was definitely a precarious drive, but worth it. There were snacks waiting for us so we enjoyed those and wine by the infinity pool. The pool was a little too cool for swimming for most, unfortunately.
Cory had arranged for dinner to be brought in, and we set up outside under an arbor. The starter was a vegetable lasagna, but everyone decided it tasted more like vegetables in queso. Not a noodle in sight. The main was shredded duck in rice and a pork loin with potatoes. It was good and easy and gave us time to get to know each other better. We did have a few cat visitors, and Megan named the black and white one Simon. He became our temporary pet for the week.
We started the day by grabbing some baked goods for breakfast while another of my brother’s friends was arriving from the airport. After Meredith got in, we decided to hike up to a church. Porto is pretty hilly and some of these were a challenge for this Florida girl, but I made it. There were great views, and the church had a lot of pretty blue tile work. After that we wandered back down (hallelujah) through shops and artists set up on the street.
Our goal was to have lunch at Sao Nicolau somewhat near our apartment. We put our name on the list and after about twenty minutes got a table. We got a white wine, bolinhos bacalau(of course), octopus rice, and garlic shrimp. It also came with crispy fried potatoes. This octopus was fried so a completely different version from the previous night. Everything was really good. The pigeons were a little aggressive, but added an interesting twist to the ambiance. It was a beautiful table outside with a view of the river.
I left a little early to hop in an uber to my tasting appointment at Cockburns port house that a rep had set up. I did a tour(it’s the biggest port house there) and then a tasting. I bought a couple of bottles to bring back to the house. From there, no longer pressed on time, walked the riverfront of Gaia and across the bridge to Porto. Everyone else had found a lovely bar overlooking the river and I was able to meet up with them there.
For dinner, we were meeting the other two couples that would be staying in Pinhao with us. Travis really wanted the grilled sardines the area was famous for, and so we made the trip to Matosinhos for seafood. It was a really good, slightly chaotic dinner where a lot of food and wine were ordered and shared, as many of us got to know each other for the first time. It was a fun night, and tomorrow we would all travel by train to Pinhao.
We woke up very early to catch the train to Lyon. Running a little behind as usual, we did a rapid 15 minute burst of cardio in the darkness to get there. We made it with minutes to spare. We hopped a Uber to the airport after arriving in Lyon and were off to Portugal. It was rainy and windy in Porto, which made for a shaky landing. Within 45 minutes of landing, we were being dropped off near our apartment. We dropped our bags inside and went to meet Cory’s friend JoAnn at a wine bar up the street. I had a glass of Portuguese white and we people watched from the window. I absolutely loved Portugal the last time I was here and am so happy and grateful to have been able to come back.
Deciding the we needed some octopus immediately, we wandered into a small restaurant for a snack. We got bolinhos bacalau and octopus gallego as well as a fried version. The gallego was definitely the winner.
We did a little exploring around our neighborhood, which was down by the river. There was a restaurant that we were really wanting to try, but knew it was really small(8 tables) and all attempts to make a reservation by phone had failed. We decided to stroll by and check it out anyway. As we passed it, it began to rain, so Cory popped in to see if there was any chance at all of getting in. It worked! We squeezed in, and even though we had just had a snack, prepared for dinner. Not five minutes later, a line formed outside of people waiting to get a table. As it’s so small, it wasn’t moving very fast. We got a bottle of Portuguese red and ordered bolinhos bacalau to start(just to compare) and the feijoada, salt crusted sea bass and octopus in it’s own rice. The fish came out flaming and they filleted it at the table. It and the feijoada were good but the octopus was the star. I could eat this dish on a daily basis. The octopus had a little char and was super tender. The rice had nice little crispy bits and onions throughout. I’m so glad we were able to sneak in. It was a fantastic meal. We left happy and very full and turned the table over to the next lucky customers. It had been a long travel day for everyone so we went back to the apartment to get some rest.
We awoke to rain, and the forecast looked iffy so we aborted the biking plan and took a cab to the next town south, Pommard. Pommard is known for its reds. Our first tasting was at Armond Heitz. Like so many wineries, this one was family owned for many generations. Before the tasting, our guide took us to one of their clos(an area of vines surrounded by a wall). Then we tasted some reds, whites and one rose. The wines were very good and we ended up shipping some home.
The rain had stopped, which made for a nice stroll to the next town over, Volnay. We passed people picking grapes in some of the vineyards, but many had already harvested. We ate lunch at Le Cellier Volnaysien. I had a glass of premier cru meursault to go with a warm goat cheese salad. That goat cheese was delicious! I also got the oefs en meurette and a glass of Pommard red to go with.
After lunch, we walked back to Pommard for our last tasting at Chateau Pommard. It’s got a huge, beautiful tasting room and is definitely a lot bigger operation than a lot of the other vineyards we had been. Our guide showed us the visuals of the soils from all their different plots, and then we tasted wines from three different plots and then three different vintages. It was fun to compare the differences.
After that, we began our hour long walk back to Beaune as a storm began to chase us. We were stopped along the way and asked to take a picture of a group of people. It turns out that they had just finished harvest and were celebrating. The rain caught us just as we reached the outskirts of Beaune. Tired from the walk and full from nonstop eating, we opted to just eat something light at home so Cory popped out and grabbed a frozen quiche and pizza. The breaker for the oven kept tripping, so we ended up cooking pizza in a pan on stove top. It’s possible if you are in a pinch!
Ramblings of a foodie traveler 